A Calorie, is a Calorie, is a Calorie. Or is it? | Civil Eats

A Calorie, is a Calorie, is a Calorie. Or is it?

Two days ago I wrote here on Civil Eats that it may not be long before the food industry will be proven wrong about their two favorite messages: All calories are created equal, and it’s all about personal responsibility. Well, it appears that science may be one step closer to proving at least half of that equation wrong and that in fact; all calories are not created equal. The latest study, published in The Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA) this week, found that when it came to weight loss and maintaining weight loss, those who ate a low carbohydrate, high fat diet kept more weight off than those who were on either a low glycemic diet or a low fat, high carbohydrate diet.

While all participants in the study ate the same number of calories, the types consumed varied. The low fat diet contained 60 percent carbohydrates, 20 percent protein, and 20 percent fat. The low glycemic diet contained 40 percent carbs, 40 percent fat, and 20 percent protein (with a focus on minimally processed foods). The low carb diet had 10 percent of calories from carbs, 60 percent from fat, and 30 percent from protein.

Compared to those on the low fat diet, those following the low carb diet burned 350 calories more per day and those on the low glycemic diet burned 150 calories more per day.

The most compelling part of this study is that it calls into question the long-held belief in the scientific and medical communities that all calories are created equal. This is a message the food industry has also seized on since it means they can continue to pump out ultra processed nutritionally void foods and tell Americans to “eat them in moderation.” If all calories are created equal, the food industry says, then there are no bad foods.

But this message doesn’t just come from the food industry, Marion Nestle, a long-time critic of Big Food, has spoken about calories in a similar way. She wrote on her blog that the JAMA study was too small (it had 21 participants) and that more research was needed outside of a controlled setting. She’s quoted in USA Today saying:

Longer studies conducted among people in their own environments, not with such controlled meals, have shown “little difference in weight loss and maintenance between one kind of diet and another.” More research is needed to show that interesting results like these are applicable in real life, she says. “In the meantime, if you want to lose weight, eat less.”

I disagree. As a nutrition educator, I think that telling people to “eat less” is largely ineffective and continues to place the burden on the consumer as part of the personal responsibility credo. On the other hand, telling people to eliminate processed, refined carbohydrates and sugars, while eating plenty of high quality fats, proteins, and vegetables seems to be a more workable solution to stimulating weight loss. Part of the reason this may be so effective is because simple carbohydrates and sugars actually stimulate appetite and cravings, while fats, proteins, and complex carbohydrates like vegetables, beans, and legumes satiate and stabilize blood sugar.

A recent report put out by the World Public Health Nutrition Association found that processing does matter, noting that ultra processed foods are “habit-forming and some would say often at least quasi-addictive. They do displace healthy meals, dishes and foods and thus are liable to cause obesity or else at least mild malnutrition.”

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The addictive factor of these foods is highly problematic and there’s evidence to suggest that eating sugar makes you crave and consume more sugar starting with our experiences as babies and even in utero (see a recent article on Gilt Taste for more on this).

And according to Robert Lustig, a professor of clinical pediatrics at UC San Francisco, a low carb diet or a low glycemic diet is what helps keep our insulin levels low, he believes that elevated insulin levels are at the root of obesity. “To borrow a phrase from Bill Clinton: It’s the insulin, stupid. The reason any diet will work is because it lowers insulin. And a diet that doesn’t, like the traditional low-fat diet, won’t work,” he said in a recent Los Angeles Times article.

Anecdotally, I’ve noticed that once my clients cut sugar and simple carbohydrates from their diets their cravings for these kinds of foods quickly dissipate. It’s only observational, but I see it repeatedly and so do other nutritionists and doctors I know.

Over online at The New York Times, Mark Bittman wrote about the JAMA study with a conclusive evaluation, “The message is pretty simple: unprocessed foods give you a better chance of idealizing your weight—and your health. Because all calories are not created equal.”

But there’s still no consensus among doctors, nutritionists, researchers, or writers.

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The implications for coming to a scientific consensus about whether or not types of calories do matter cannot be understated since it could effect regulation for Big Food as well as the dietary recommendations from the government which translates to (among other things) what children eat in school every day. Right now, MyPlate recommends that Americans eat an average of 6.3 servings of grains a day. Even the American Diabetes Association recommends a high carbohydrate and low fat diet. But if the results from this latest study are accurate, all of these recommendations may ultimately prove harmful. Acknowledging that all calories are not created equal and that ultra processed foods are detrimental to everyone would go a long way in changing our crash course with diet related disease and death.

Photo: Breakfast with calories, by Shutterstock

Kristin Wartman is a journalist who writes about food, health, politics, and culture. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, The Atlantic, Huffington Post and many others. Kristin's first book, Formerly Known as Food—a critical look at how the industrial food system is changing our minds, bodies, and culture—is forthcoming from St. Martin’s Press. Read more >

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  1. John Ranta
    I also read Marion Nestle's response to the JAMA study, and thought "now she hs to defend what she's said in her books, and interviews".

    Lustig, Eenfeldt, Taubes and others have been writing about the metabloic mchanisms in which a diet high in crbs and sugar leads to increases in insulin, storage of fatty acids in fat cells, and hence to obesity, diabetes and high serum triglycerides (a major factor in heart disease). A carb calorie becomes stored body fat, a protein calorie or (ironically) an animal fat calorie is either burned as energy, or secreted as waste.

    It's very frustrating to listen to "experts" like Nestle who repeat the "calorie is a calorie" myth without examining the work of Lustig or that done at Lund University. By doing so, Nestle is contributing in her own way, to the obesity epidemic. JR
  2. Richard
    Perhaps you are not acquainted with the writings of Gary Taubes. Taubes thoroughly destroyed the idea that all calories are equal by examining the science over the last 70 years; hence the title "Good Calories, Bad Calories." I would not wait for "consensus among doctors, nutritionists, researchers, or writers." Most of them cannot research their way out of brown paper bag.
  3. Great post and well said. Thank you for sharing!!
  4. pjnoir
    HIGH fat LOW carb diets WORK ! Saved my diabetic soul, lost 70 lbs three years ago gained twenty back as muscle and a re-shaped body. Not bad for a 58 year old. My blood numbers are better than perfect. I could use an increase in Cholesterol as 126 is a tad low from eating all that good animal fat. Taubes explained this years ago..and never follow the ADA diet unless you are prepared to use more and more meds.
  5. Adrienne
    This study is not groundbreaking. It says that refined, processed carbs are bad for us and a diet too high in fat (particularly animal fat) can incite inflammatory responses.

    It is bothersome that the headlines make overarching statements about carbs causing you to be fat and high-fat diets being good for weight loss. Not all calories are created equal because they aren't eaten in isolation; they're eaten with a host of other nutrients and phytochemicals. Empty carbs from refined, processed foods that are rapidly absorbed into our blood are not healthy for us; we know this.

    My biggest fear is that the public is going to run out and feel like they should eat more meat, which is ludicrous. Vegetables, fruits, nuts, beans, whole grains (including quinoa), lean meats high in unsaturated fats and good quality oils. Now that's the foundation of a healthy diet.

    Adrienne Haschke, MS, RD

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